As one of the most popular textiles, you may have heard of rayon and probably even used it in one of your sewing projects. But, have you ever wondered if it’s a natural fiber like cotton or if it’s truly a sustainable material like some manufacturers claim it to be? 

We hope to satisfy your curiosity about rayon by answering those questions and providing more information in this article. 

What is Rayon?

Rayon is a semi-synthetic fiber made from the cellulose of natural materials like pine, beech, and eucalyptus, though it can also come from bamboo and cotton. It’s known for its soft, silky texture, which makes it an economical alternative to silk. 

Rayon is probably among the most confusing textiles around because it goes under different names, including viscose, modal, lyocell, and Tencel. However, the best way to understand it is to treat rayon as a catch-all term for textiles derived from cellulose, which is the core component of plants. 

You can classify rayon fabrics according to their base material and how they’re produced.

• Viscose is made from wood pulp and is produced in a particular way. Despite being the most well-known rayon fabric, it has the lowest wet strength, making it susceptible to shrinking. 
• Modal is derived from beech tree pulp and is often combined with other fibers like cotton and spandex to improve its durability and stretch. It’s commonly used for pajamas, underwear, bedding, and towels. 
• Lyocell is also made from beech trees, but producing it uses a different method and fewer chemicals than its other rayon cousins, making it more eco-friendly. It also goes by the name Tencel™, which is actually a flagship brand by Lenzing, an industrial company specializing in botanic solutions.
• Cuprammonium rayon, or cupro or cupra, is developed from cotton linters dissolved in a copper and ammonia solution. This rayon fabric is solely manufactured by the Japanese company Asahi Kasei under the trade name Bemberg™.

According to an article by Joe Schwarcz, PhD, published by McGill University’s Office for Science and Society, rayon is the first synthetic fiber. Until the late 19th century, you must be moneyed to enjoy the luxury of silk. After all, 5000 silkworm cocoons are needed to produce a kilo of the fiber, not to mention the labor-intensive process that went into harvesting, extracting, and spinning them. All that made silk very expensive.

It was in 1889 when the first “artificial silk” was introduced at the Paris Exhibition. It possesses silk’s luster and drape but is less pricey than the authentic material. 

Count Hilaire von Chardonnet, a French scientist and industrialist, was credited for making the first marketable synthetic fiber in 1884. Unfortunately, the fabric was flammable, so it didn’t take off. The German Bemberg Company developed a safer process for producing rayon in 1890, referred to as cuprammonium. 

By 1892, British scientists Charles Frederick Cross, Edward John Bevan, and Clayton Beadle discovered and patented a new production method for rayon. This led to the introduction of the first commercial viscose rayon in 1905, which was still referred to as “artificial silk.” It was in 1924 when the Dupont Company started manufacturing the fiber at scale and marketed it as “rayon.” 

How Rayon is Made

Rayon starts its life as a cellulose from plants. This is the reason many believe it is a natural fabric. But, the process of turning that cellulose into fiber is anything but natural.   

The cellulose is dissolved in caustic soda and left to age for a couple of days. From there, carbon sulfide is added to the mix to create xanthate, a pulpy, yellowish substance. Xanthate is then forced through tiny holes (spinnerets), with the resulting products dropping directly into a sulfuric acid bath that solidifies them into fibers. Lastly, those fibers are spun into threads or yarns, which can be dyed or further treated to fit different applications. 

WOVEN VISCOSE FABRIC DIGITAL PRINT TELA CHALLIS DIGITAL DISCHARGE PRINT RAYON FABRICS RAYON VISCOSE MODAL FABRIC

Advantages and Disadvantages of Rayon Fabric

Rayon presents several positive qualities that make it favored by many fashion designers and clothing manufacturers. 

As mentioned earlier, the material has the sheen, drape, and delicacy of silk minus the expensive price tag, making it an excellent alternative to the latter. Also, it mimics some of the qualities of other natural fibers, like cotton’s washability and linen’s lightweightness. Due to that, rayon is a versatile material that can be adapted to different styles and uses. 

As if those weren’t enough, this synthetic fabric also feels comfortable and smooth on the skin, making it a great choice for summer clothing.

Of course, rayon has its share of challenges. Due to the material’s poor wet fastness, it loses its strength when wet, requiring it to be carefully handled when being washed. It also has low elasticity, making it prone to shrinking, stretching, and bagging without recovering its original form. Also, cleaning spots can lead to permanent marks since rayon absorbs moisture and other liquids. 

The good news is that these challenges can be addressed by extensively modifying rayon. For instance, lyocell possesses dry and wet tensile qualities that rival cotton, allowing it to be used for regular apparel and other frequently used products. This is due to the chemical processing and extrusion that the material goes through during production. 

Is Rayon Sustainable?

For a fabric derived from natural renewable sources, many manufacturers and advertisers are taking advantage of this fact to market rayon as an eco-friendly material. Yet, like many semi-synthetic fabrics, rayon’s sustainable credential is questionable for several reasons. 

According to the non-profit organization Canopy, more than 300 million trees are felled annually to produce cellulosic textiles like viscose. Unfortunately, about a third of those trees are from ancient and endangered forests in Indonesia, Brazil, and Canada’s Boreal. 

Continued logging of those forests negatively affects ecosystems. It ruins the habitats of endangered and protected species, threatening their lives in the process. It also destroys the livelihoods of many people, especially indigenous communities that rely on the bounty of forests for food. 

According to the UN Department of Economic and Social Affairs, more than 1.6 billion people depend on forests for food, shelter, and livelihood. The lands occupied and used by indigenous communities are often grabbed and cleared to accommodate pulpwood plantations. 

Deforestation and human rights abuses aren’t the only environmental issues linked to rayon. Its production process is also a serious problem. 

Preparing logs for pulp production and turning pulp into fiber is energy- and water-intensive. It also uses a lot of acids, toxic dyes, and finishing chemicals. These substances pollute the air and water without proper treatment, producing toxic environmental effects. 

They also put workers’ health at risk, as exposure to chemicals like carbon disulfide can cause dizziness, headaches, poor sleep, vision changes, and weight loss. It can affect the kidneys, blood, liver, and nerves and cause reproductive issues. Sodium hydroxide or lye, another chemical used to produce rayon, is corrosive and can cause severe skin burns. The hydrolyzed protein it contains also threatens the eyes, leading to severe eye damage or, in extreme cases, blindness.  

Is There Such a Thing as Sustainable Rayon? 

Given rayon’s environmental and social impacts, you may think it’s a fabric to steer clear of. But, with technology progressing, new rayon fabrics are developed using sustainable processes and practices that include: 

• Responsible sourcing of cellulose from wood grown in controlled forests
• Less energy and water consumption
• Minimal use of chemicals
• Closed-loop production systems

Final Thoughts 

Rayon is a great fabric for creating light and airy clothing. Plus, its luster and drape make it an affordable alternative to silk. Yet, as a semi-synthetic fabric with several environmental issues with its fibers, it’s not the best material for a sustainable wardrobe. Its production contributes to deforestation, and air and water pollution, not to mention negative health and social impacts. 

If you can’t give up on rayon just yet, consider the better types we’ve outlined above. They’re friendlier to the environment and the people making them because of their sustainable production processes. Even better? Purchase garments made from plant-based, certified organic fabrics like cotton, wool, linen, hemp, or bamboo. We mentioned ‘certified organic’ as the materials are grown and processed sustainably. 

If you find that those options are pricier than what your budget would allow, it’s always best to be intentional about your clothes by buying fewer things or second-hand. Doing so will help you minimize your environmental impact while creating a wardrobe with pieces you love and will wear for a long time.